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Fundamentals of Routesetting

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About the book

Setting good climbing routes in the gym is about a lot more than just the shape and size of the holds. Inside Fundamentals of Routesetting you will learn important skills such as how to accommodate tall and short climbers, promote creative technique, control a route’s tempo, and minimize risk of injury.

Our sport has been lacking in a written reference to help teach and standardize routesetting activities. In 2004, The Art of Coursesetting was written to meet that need. Fundamentals of Routesetting is essentially a new edition that has been updated to reflect the changes in our industry since that time. A brief overview of all relevant topics is offered, with enough detail to educate and get setters started, but leaving plenty of room for individual creativity and implementation. Scott Rennak (founder of the popular American Bouldering Series – ABS) has put together an informative section on competition organization, management and formatting options. This wisdom is the culmination of hundreds of successful competitions and offers the insight necessary to make your event all that it can be. Also included are essays from several premier routesetters such as Chris Danielson, Molly Beard and Matt Bosley.

About the author

Written by nationally recognized master routesetter, Louie Anderson. Louie owns “The Factory Bouldering Gym” in Orange, CA, and currently resides in Tensleep, WY with his wife and climbing partner, Valarie, and their two daughters. He is also author of Riverside Quarry and Sport Climbing the Santa Monicasas well as Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing.

Here is an interesting interview in Climbing Business Journal if you’d like to read more about Louie’s thoughts about the trends in routesetting and gyms in North America.


  • Fundamentals of Routesetting
  • 2014 Louie Anderson
  • by Louie Anderson
  • 236 full-color pages
  • 9780976663010